ABC facial cleansing
Facial cleansing is a must
Sweat, sebum, skin flakes mixed with pollutants and makeup make regular cleansing of the facial skin imperative. If this film is not removed, it can irritate the skin, block up the pores, hinder the desquamation of dead skin cells and the move-up of the new cells. Consequently, the skin looks grey and dull and is unable to absorb the active agents from the skincare products.
The sensitive, dry skin does not require more than cleansing in the evening and refreshment in the morning. However, an extremely sensitive skin can be irritated by very hard water. It should prefer a thermal spray or a mild, of course non-alcoholic tonic lotion for refreshment.
The step after cleansing with products suitable for the skin state is clarifying with a facial tonic. It functions as an after-cleansing because it removes residues of cleansing. It stabilizes skin’s pH balance although also cleansing should use products with acid or neutral pH for every skin.
A special form of cleansing is peeling which should be done sometimes. It is recommended for mature skin with slower renewal processes and for blemished skin and skin with keratinization problems. Also dry skin tolerates an occasional gentle peeling.
For an optimal facial cleansing it is important to use products which are appropriate for the skin condition.
ABC facial cleansing: washing gel, washing foam
Combination or oily skins require cleansing in the evening and in the morning.
For normal to dry skin cleansing in the evening is sufficient.
The cleansing foam is lathered up with water, massaged on the face and rinsed off with water. It is available for all skin types.
The cleansing gel refreshes the skin. It is applied to moistened skin and rinsed off with water. It is ideal for normal skin, combination skin and oily skin.
The products can contain soothing and anti-inflammatory chamomile or menthol and hamamelis with astringent and sebum-controlling effects.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
GENUINE CHAMOMILE
INCI: Matricaria Recutita
CAS-No: 84082-60-0 / 8002-66-2
Extraction: from leaves, flowers, steam distillation
Properties: blue liquid, herbal smell
Main ingredients: bisabolol, flavonoids, carboxylic acids, coumarins
Effect: calming, soothing, anti-inflammatory, healing, antibacterial
MENTHOL
INCI: Menthol
CAS-No: 1490-04-6 / 2216-51-5 / 89-78-1 / 15756-70-4
Contained in: the oil of field mint (Mentha Arvensis: 70-95% menthol) or peppermint (Mentha Piperita: 29-48% menthol)
Properties: white, crystalline, smell of peppermint
Effect: cooling, firming, refreshing
Note: risk of allergy
HAMAMELIS
INCI: Hamamelis Virginia Extract
CAS-No.: 84696-19-5
Extraction: from twigs, leaves, bark of the Virginian witch-hazel by steam distillation
Main ingredients: tannins, flavonoids, essential oils
Effect: astringent, anti-inflammatory, toning, anti-seborrheic
ABC facial cleansing: cleaning milk / lotion
Normal to skin should prefer cleansing milk or lotion which is mild and does not strip lipids from the skin. The alcohol-free products are also suitable for removing makeup residues from the sensitive eye areas. They are applied to dry skin and taken off with water or tissues.
Gentle emulsions with allantoin or D-Panthenol have skincare and hydration effects.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
ALLANTOIN
INCI: Allantoin
CAS-No.: 97-59-6
Contained in: urine of mammals, plants, e.g., wheat germs, comfrey roots, chestnut bark
Extraction: synthetic
Properties: colorless, crystalline powder, odorless, tasteless
Effect: soothing, cell-regenerating, smooths rough, chapped skin, improves moisture-binding capacity, ideal for irritated skin
D-PANTHENOL
INCI: Dexapanthenol
CAS-No: 81-13-0
Also named panthenol or pro-vitamin B5
Found in: all living cells
Extraction: synthetic
Properties: viscous, colorless, well soluble in water and alcohol
Effect: very gentle to skin, moisturizing, calming, stimulates skin regeneration, strengthens skin barrier, enhances elasticity and suppleness, anti-inflammatory, anti-irritant, smoothing, moisture-binding, penetrates well into skin
ABC facial cleansing: cleansing oil
Cleansing oil is recommended for normal, dry to very dry skin. It replenishes lipids already during cleansing because of its contents of e.g., argan oil, almond oil, jojoba oil. It is applied with a cotton pad or massaged into skin with the fingertips, slightly lathered up with water and then rinsed off with lukewarm water. It can be used also for removing waterproof makeup or lipstick.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
ARGAN OIL
INCI-Name: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
CAS-No: 223747-87-3
Found in: Maroc
Extraction: cold pressing of kernels
Properties: pale yellow-orange, liquid, taste like nuts
Main ingredients: 38-48% oleic acid, 30-40% linoleic acid, 15-23% palmitic-/stearic acid, tocopherols, phytosterols, squalane
Effect: replenishes lipids, contains oils precious for skin: oleic acid = free fatty acid in sebum; linoleic acid = reduces transepidermal water loss: palmitic acid = in skin’s lipid mantle: stearic acid = moisture-binding, film-building; tocopherol = antioxidant, protects cellular membranes, improves skin’s hydration; phytosterole = in skin’s lipidic film; squalene = sebum component
ALMOND OIL
INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
CAS-No.: 8007-69-0 / 90320-37-9
Extraction: cold pressing of the almond kernels
Properties: fat oil, free of hydrocyanic acid, from sweet and bitter almonds of Prunus dulcis, almost odorless, fine, pale-yellow oil, quick to turn rancid
Main ingredients: oleic acid (sebum component), linoleic acid
Effect: soft skin feeling, smoothing, accelerates healing, replenishes lipids, strengthens skin’s barrier, reduces transepidermal water loos, ideal for dry, flaky skin
JOJOBA OIL
INCI: Simnondsia Chinensis Seed Oil / Buxus Chinensis Seed Oil
CAS-No.: 61789-91-1
Extraction: from the seeds of the jojoba brush, cold pressing
Properties: pale-yellow, odorless, does not turn rancid, plant lipid, very similar to sebum
Main ingredients: lipids, waxes, pro-vitamin A, vitamin E
Effect: for supple, soft skin, good skin penetration, not greasy, is said to protect against UV-rays
ABC facial cleansing: facial tonic
The purpose of a facial tonic is after-cleansing and stabilizing the skin. It clears the skin from last traces of cleansing, regulates the pH balance, astringes the pores.
Micellar products are especially suited for impure, oily skin and for in-between cleansing. Products with alcohol or menthol should be used only for oily skin, while a thermal water hydrates and calms and therefore is ideal for dry or sensitive skin.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
PEPPERMINT OIL
INCI: Mentha Piperita Oil
CAS-No.: 8006-90-4 / 84082-70-2
Extraction: steam distillation
Properties: pale-yellow-green, liquid, mint smell
Main ingredients: menthol, menthone
Effect: relaxing, cooling, refreshing, astringent, ant-inflammatory, itch-soothing, for tired skin, acne
Note: can cause allergies
Special products
THERMAL WATER
Thermal water should have a temperature of minimum 20°C when coming of the source.
It contains salts, minerals and sulfur, depending on the source.
It has skin-calming, hydrating, cooling, anti-irritant, antioxidant, antibacterial effects and mos frequently is used as spray.
MICELLAR WATER
In the formulation the surfactant molecules are arranged so that the fat-attracting (lipophile) parts are lined up to inner part of the spherical structures and the water-attracting (hydrophile) to the water. That organization allows an intensive cleansing effect when used with a moistened cotton pad that removes oil-soluble makeup, greasy dirt, sebum, and water-soluble dirt in one step. Rinse-off is not necessary. It is suitable for sensitive skin, too. Nevertheless, is recommended to apply a moisturizing lotion on dry, sensitive skin afterwards.
ABC facial cleansing: enzyme peeling
The enzyme peeling removes dead skin cells without mechanical effects and is suitable also for dry and sensitive skin.
Enzymes, e.g., ananas extract, stimulate desquamation by breaking down the links between the horny cells, thereby separating them from skin. The skin appears smoother and finer.
An enzyme peeling is applied in the evening after cleansing. Lather up with water, allow to work in, rinse off.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
ANANAS EXTRACT
INCI: Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract
CAS-No.: 68917-26-0
Main ingredients: Bromelain: The ananas enzyme breaks down the proteins in the upper skin layers to remove them in a gentle manner. Vitamin C
Effect: peeling effect, separates skin scales, upper cell layers, antioxidant, anti-aging effect, moisturizing, regenerating, improves skin appearance
ABC facial cleansing: peeling wash
The dead cells of the upper skin layer are rubbed off with microparticles from fruit peels, almond bran or sea sand.
The procedure opens plugged pores, removes impurities. Skin circulation is stimulated, the complexion looks smoother and fresher.
Normal or combination skin can apply such a scrub once or twice a week; dry skin only occasionally; sensitive skin should not use it.
Apply in the evening, after cleansing. Moisten the face, massage in the peeling, afterwards rinse off thoroughly.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
ALLMOND BRAN
Pressing residue of the extraction of sweet or bitter almond oil.
Contains kernel shells and nutrient tissue.
Ideal to scrub away horny scales.
ABC facial cleansing: cleansing mask
Cleansing masks remove horny skin, cleanse deeply, and smooth facial skin. The mask is applied in the evening, after cleansing; after taking effect, it is rinsed off with lukewarm water. Do not apply to eye area.
Masks with salicylic acid or fruit acids, e.g., glycolic acid, loosen skin flakes from skin’s surface, cleanse, unclog the pores and make way for the young, moisture-rich cells to move to the surface and reveal a radiant complexion. Masks with clay (kaolin) bind sebum; heilmoor clay helps to soothe inflammations.
Active ingredients in the ABC facial cleansing:
SALICYLIC ACID
INCI: Salicylic Acid
CAS-No.: 69 –72–7
Contained in: e.g., willow bark
Extraction: synthetic
Effect: keratolytic, peeling effect, antiseptic, for skin impurities, acne
Note: irritating effect on eye area and mucous membranes; do not use on sensitive skin
GLYCOLIC ACID
INCI: Glycolic Acid
CAS-No.: 79–14–1
Contained in: sugar cane sap, unripe grapes
Properties: smallest fruit acid, thanks to it molecular size can penetrate into deeper layers of the epidermis
Effect: keratolytic, reduces horny skin, removes dead skin cells so that new cells can reach skin’s surface; do not use on sensitive skin
KAOLIN
INCI: Kaolin
CAS-No.: 1332-58-7
Properties: Clay or china clay, fine, soft powder, highly absorbent
Effect: absorbs liquids and skin oils, blotting-paper effect, mattifying, cleansing, in facial masks/ compresses
MOORLAND CLAY
INCI: Heilmoor Clay
Main ingredients: minerals, trace elements
Effect: binds and neutralizes harmful substances; absorbs superfluous sebum, oil, dirt, skin flakes when used in facial masks; ideal für oily skin, as a moisturizer also for normal to dry skin
ABC facial cleansing for sensitive skin
Sensitive skin should avoid products with preservatives, like parabens, perfumes, essential oils, emulsifiers, or alcohol.
A cleansing lotion or milk with thermal water will soothe the sensitive skin.
In the morning, it needs nothing but washing with lukewarm water or refreshing with thermal water or a mild, moisturizing facial lotion to protect its lipid-moisture film,
Perfect in the ABC facial cleansing for sensitive skin are products with few ingredients, e.g., minimalistic products
Without critical substances
An essential of the ABC facial cleansing is the exclusion of critical substances.
That means: Without acrylates: They could damage skin’s barrier function and some of them are categorized as microplastic.
Without PEGs: They are suspected of causing cancer and could damage skin’s barrier.
Sulfate surfactants: They dehydrate the skin and make it more permeable for harmful substances.
Polyquaternium: It is suspected of causing cancer and for some part is categorized as microplastic.
Paraffins: The mineral oil derivates could dehydrate and seal the skin in the long term
Silicones: The are difficult to degrade in the environment and could seal the skin in the long term.
ABC facial cleansing with Cosmacon
Cosmacon develops product formulations for facial cleansing with a minimal content of active agents because the time they stay on the skin is short. We prefer formulations with less ingredients. They are perfectly tolerated by the skin and have a clear focus. Ask our advice on all matters of facial cleansing.