anti-redness
Skin redness may have many causes. It can be a short-term appearance after irritation, e.g., by rough weather, shaving, harsh cleansing, or be persistent. It can have the form of red spots or spread over larger areas, accompanied by itching and dry skin or acute feeling of heat and burning.
Almost always the disturbance of skin’s protective barrier is involved in redness. Over-sensitive nerves, mental stress, increased allergy tendency, inflammations may be triggering factors.
The task of anti-redness skincare is to inhibit inflammations, to boost the immune system, to invigorate skin’s protective barrier and to calm the skin.
In the following, we describe some active ingredients with anti-redness effectiveness.
Polyphenol from fruit peels soothes rosacea-typical redness
Rosacea is characterized by dilated capillaries which cause red skin discoloration. The disease is accompanied by inflammations, itch, and coarse skin deformations.
The active agent with trade name Carboxy-Methyl (CM)-Naringenin-Chalcone (Mibelle Biochemistry) reduces the blood flow in the capillaries and the associated redness typical of rosacea. In addition, it has anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory properties and provably inhibits the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
The active agent is based on a derivative of the polyphenol naringenin-chalcone that is found e.g., in the peels of citrus fruits.
CM-Naringenin-Chalcone is a stabilized form of the active molecule that provides the full activity in cosmetic formulations.
The reduction of the release of cytokines in stressed keratinocytes could be proved in vitro.
The reduction of facial redness was clearly visible on the test persons’ faces.
The active ingredient diminishes redness of sensitive skin. It protects and calms stressed skin and soothes inflammations.
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INCI: Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringenin-chalcone, Aqua
Trade name: CM-Naringenin-Chalcone
Description: powder, single substance, water-soluble, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration of use: 0.05 – 0.1 %
Effect: anti-redness, tested on skin with persistent redness
Strong skin barrier = anti-redness protection
The skin is equipped with a strong protection system.
The microbial part is the skin flora composed of skin’s own bacteria and fungi which inhibit the growth of pathogenic germs.
The chemical protection is produced by the skin’s protective acid mantle with a pH of
4.7 to 5.7.
The mechanical protection results from the upper layers of the stratum corneum.
Directly under skin’s surface, the dendritic cells build the foremost front of the immune system, and the horny cells, too, fulfil immunological functions and produce defense substances against harmful pathogens.
No wonder that the emergence of inflammations, dehydration, or redness is more probable when the protection system is impaired. An active agent from baker’s yeast is suitable for its support.
Sodium Carboxymethyl β-glucan (trade name: CM-Glucan Granulate, Mibelle Biochemistry) stimulates the immune system of skin, strengthens its defenses, moisturizes, reduces transepidermal water loss, accelerates skin renewal after damages, inhibits deteriorating oxidation of skin lipids.
The skin becomes noticeably more resistant and visibly smoother and firmer.
The effectiveness of CM-Glucan Granulate for sensitive, stressed skin has been proved in clinic studies.
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INCI: Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Trade name: CM-Glucan Granulate
Description: powder, water-soluble, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration of use: 0.02 – 0.1%
Effect: protection, regeneration of damaged skin, strengthening effect on skin’s immune system, tested on sensitive skin
Beta-Glucan from baker’s yeast strengthens skin‘s immune system
With allergic skin reactions, like eczema, the body responds over-sensibly to certain substances and increases the production of immunoglobins of the category E and pro-inflammatory interleukins. The signs are inflammatory reactions, skin redness, itch, even small lumps.
CM-Glucan Forte (trade name, Mibelle Biochemistry) has been developed to balance skin’s immune system. It reduces the production of antibodies and the adhesion of pus-building
staphylococcus aureus bacteria on the skin.
The bivalent magnesium ions bind water molecules, have anti-inflammatory properties and improve epidermal proliferation and differentiation.
Application tests proved the soothing effect on eczema symptoms. The skin felt calmed, better hydrated and smoother:
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INCI Magnesium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Trade name: CM-Glucan Forte
Description: powder, single substance, water-soluble, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration of use: 0.02 – 0.1%
Effect: anti-redness, reduces eczema symptoms. Tested on sensitive skin.
Sea anemone soothes sensitive skin
Sensitive skin reacts to minor environmental stressor with itch and redness.
Responsible is the overreaction of the pain receptor TRPV1 whose job is the detection of tissue-damaging stressors.
Scientists have found a special protein in the poison of a sea anemone (Heteractis crispa) that inhibits the TRPV1 receptor. To make this protein usable in skincare, Mibelle Biochemistry developed a pentapeptide that contains the TRPV1 inhibitor sequence of the sea anemone protein. The active agent with trade name SensAmone P5 soothes sensitive skin and reduces skin irritations and redness.
In vivo tests proved that SensAmone P5 raises the sensory threshold of skin beginning with the first use. Skin reacted less sensitively to an electric stimulus as well as to the prick test.
The test persons perceived reduction of sensitivity and decreased stress reaction of the skin.
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INCI: Pentapeptide-59, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Aqua
Trade name: SensAmone P5
Description: liquid, water-soluble, without alcohol, without preservatives
Recommended concentration of use: 1 – 2 %
Effect: calms sensitive skin, anti-redness, tested an sensitive skin
Magnolia inhibits inflammatory aging
Inflammatory processes are a major cause of ailments of old age. They are triggered mainly by damaged proteins and pro-inflammatory cytokines resulting from damaged cells. While the damaged cells are repaired in case of acute inflammations, chronic inflammations impair the normal functions of body tissue. That is why we speak of inflammatory aging or
Infamm‘ Aging. Chronic inflammations result in premature deterioration and senescent processes, and due to the damages they cause, they can be accompanied by persistent skin redness.
Chinese medicine has used the bark of magnolia (Magnolia officinalis) for centuries to treat the stagnation of Qi energy and anxiety disorder or allergic diseases and others. The magnolia contains two pharmacologically active components, magnolol and honokiol, which inhibit inflammatory processes and aging.
The active agent with trade name MAXnolia (Mibelle Biochemistry) is based on an extract from the magnolia bark and fights Inflamm‘ Aging of skin.
Thanks to its anti-aging effect it helps to increase skin’s firmness and hydration, to reduce persistent skin redness and crow’s feet lines and to improves skin’s youthful appearance.
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INCI: MAXnolia (standard version): Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract (and) Tocopherol (and) Lecithin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua
MAXnolia O (oil-soluble version): Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract (and) Caprylic / Capric
Triglyceride
Trade name: MAXnolia
Description: powder, water-soluble, without alcohol, without preservatives, oil-soluble version available
Recommended concentration of use: 0.1 – 0.5 %
Effect: inhibits chronic inflammation processes /Inflamm’ Aging, anti-redness, tested on skin with persistent redness
Indian fig immediately calms stressed skin
Shaving, wind, sun are stressors for sensitive skin and can cause skin redness.
Der Indian fig, already appreciated by the Aztecs, inhibits the release of stress factors from the sensory nerve cells and calms and soothes stressed skin. The plant contains piscidic acid, an iron chelating agent, that reduces the formation of damaging reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin. Moreover, it has an excellent moisture-binding capacity quickly imparting to skin relief and comfort.
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INCI: Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua
Trade name: AquaCacteen (Mibelle Biochemistry)
Description: liquid, water-soluble, without alcohol, also available as oil-soluble version, also available without preservatives
Recommended concentration of use: 0.5 -2 %
Effect: immediate anti-redness effect, tested on sensitive skin
Red grapes for anti-redness
The procyanidins, the flavonoids in red grape sorts, are known for many positive effects, among them anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and calming effects.
The antioxidant complex GSP-T (trade name, Mibelle Biochemistry) combines procyanidin from Swiss grape kernels and tocopherol. The used Pinot Noir grapes from Swiss areas of cultivation are highly concentrated in procyanidins because of the high altitude, the cool and dry climate, and the chalky soils.
In vitro tests proved that the active agent inhibits lipid peroxidation, glycoxidation, and the activity of pro-inflammatory mediators.
When used on irritated skin, the anti-redness effect became noticeably already after 15 minutes. The active agent calms skin and protects it from damages cause by environmental factors.
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INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract (and) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Tocopherol (and) Glycerin (and) Alcohol (and) Aqua
Trade name: GSP-T
Description: liquid, water-soluble, without preservatives, without alcohol
Recommended concentration of use: 0.5 – 2.5 %
Effect: antioxidant, calms skin, anti-redness, tested on sensitive skin
Feminine hygiene without irritation or redness
The skin of the feminine genital area is sensitive and requires soft care that does not disturb the balance and prevents dryness, itch, redness, and inflammations.
Monk’s pepper berries, since ancient times, have been used as medicinal plants, promoting balance and relaxation, especially for women. Of major importance are the β-endorphins with their stress-reducing effect.
The active ingredient with trade name Femitim (Mibelle Biochemistry) uses the extract from monk’s pepper berries for feminine hygiene. The application test with wipes confirmed the moisturizing, protecting, soothing, and calming properties.
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INCI: Vitex Agnus Castus Extract (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua
Trade name: Femitim
Description: liquid, water-soluble, without preservatives, Ecocert approved
Recommended concentration of use: 0.5 – 3 %
Effect: improves moisture balance, anti-redness, strengthens skin’s equilibrium
Cocoa relaxes the skin
Cocoa develops the well-being effect we experience when eating chocolate also for our skin. It relaxes and smooths skin and is ideal as an anti-redness and anti-stress remedy.
The effect bases on the oil-soluble well-being substance anandamide, a component of the cacao beans and produced by our brain. Moreover, anandamide binds to a receptor present in certain skin cells.
The active agent with trade name NanoCacao (Mibelle Biochemistry) uses these features.
It is composed of the lipophile part of the cocoa bean, encapsulated in a nanoemulsion.
In-vitro tests proved that it achieves a temporary relaxation of skin muscles contractions.
In application tests, the smoothing effect on skin’s microrelief was visible. The skin felt relaxed and comfortable.
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INCI: NanoCacao (standard version): Theobroma Cacao Extract / Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Tocopherol (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua
NanoCacao O (oil-soluble version): Theobroma Cacao Extract / Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract (and) Tocopherol (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride
Trade name: NanoCacao
Description: liquid, oil-soluble, water-soluble version available, without alcohol, version without preservative available
Recommended concentration of use: 3 – 5 %
Effect: relaxes the skin, well-being
For the well-being of skin
The skin that feels well looks relaxed and even. It is free from redness which can be a sign of stress, inflammatory processes or damages and may contribute to premature aging. Cosmacon realizes skin care concepts that impart to skin visible and tangible well-being. Please contact us!