Essential fatty acids
Essential fatty acids is the collective name for the colloquial vitamin F, which in turn are abbreviated EFA. We are therefore dealing with fatty acids that our body cannot produce itself. Therefore, we have to supply them to our organism with food, because they are responsible for important functions in the body. For example, they form the basis for the production of tissue hormones, and they are also an essential building block for our cell membranes.
Essential fatty acids are particularly abundant in vegetable oils, nuts and sea fish. Anyone who uses sunflower oil, soybean oil, linseed oil or olive oil, corn oil or safflower oil in the kitchen is already contributing to a solid supply of essential fatty acids. However, depending on individual needs, this may sometimes not be enough. Our body is also able to store the essential fatty acids, so that an increased supply also builds up stronger capacities.
Types of essential fatty acids
The letter F stands for fatty acids, and essential fatty acids encompass a whole range of essential fatty acids. Basically, they can be divided into two groups: omega-3 fatty acids and omega-6 fatty acids. The first group includes alpha-linolenic acid, DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid), while the second group includes linoleic acid, dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid, gamma-linoleic acid and arachidonic acid. EPA and DHA are not found in vegetable oils, but mainly in fatty marine fish such as salmon and mackerel. A deficiency of essential fatty acids usually makes itself felt through an increased susceptibility to infections and a poor complexion.
The exact tasks and effects of essential fatty acids
Essential fatty acids play an important role in the formation of skin cells, among other things. They also keep cell membranes supple. Furthermore, they are needed for the formation of various hormones: this applies above all to prostaglandins, which as inflammation mediators initiate inflammatory processes, leukotrienes, which attract leukocytes to wounds or other affected areas and disease foci, and thromboxanes, which are important for wound healing and blood clotting. On the human cholesterol level, essential fatty acids have a hardly noticeable effect.
The effect of essential fatty acids on the skin
Essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid ensure, among other things, a radiant complexion. To stay with the example of linoleic acid: it provides our skin with sufficient moisture and is an important component of ceramides, which play a major role in building up the top layer of skin and make a valuable contribution to maintaining the skin barrier. It also counteracts cornification disorders, increases skin hydration and reduces transepidermal water loss.
In addition, linoleic acid can help with skin problems, as it has strong anti-inflammatory properties and is often used in the fight against acne and psoriasis. And essential fatty acids can also be used to combat hyperpigmentation (dark discoloration of the skin), as increased melanin synthesis is regulated by linoleic acid. If the acid is combined with vitamin C and retinol, the effectiveness is particularly good.
However, essential fatty acids also include arachidonic acid, a quadruple-unsaturated fatty acid found in egg yolk and tuna, among others. It is one of the fatty acids that is particularly abundant in the human brain. Researchers link arachidonic acid deficiency to skin problems, hair loss, and also depression and schizophrenia.
And then there is linolenic acid, which is also counted among the essential fatty acids. It too can have a positive effect on our skin and is found in abundance in borage seed oil, black currant seed oil, evening primrose oil, hemp oil and black cumin oil. Linolenic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect on neurodermatitis, because both itching and skin dryness are often due to a deficiency of linolenic acid in the blood. Linolenic acid is a component of important cell membrane lipids and, with its special structure, ensures elasticity in the cell membrane so that it remains mobile and soft. This is particularly important for the elimination of waste products and for a good supply of nutrients. During heavy physical exertion, the physical requirement for linolenic acid usually increases significantly.
Fact Sheet Vitamin F
Alpha-linolenic acid
INCI: Linolenic Acid
Alternative name: 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid
CAS number: 463-40-1
Description: tri-unsaturated fatty acid with a total of 18 carbon atoms
Natural occurrence: Linseed oil (up to 71 percent), chia oil (up to 60 percent), hemp oil (28 percent), walnut oil (15 percent)
Solubility: almost insoluble in water
Boiling point: 232 degrees Celsius
Melting point: minus 11.0 degrees Celsius
Linoleic acid
INCI: linoleic acid
Alternative name: Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid
CAS number: 60-33-3
Description: di-unsaturated fatty acid with a total of 18 carbon atoms
Properties: a colorless, almost odorless and oily liquid
Natural occurrence: among others in grape seed oil (up to 78 percent), safflower oil (up to 81 percent), hemp oil (50 percent), soybean oil (up to 57 percent), sunflower oil (up to 75 percent) and cottonseed oil (up to 58 percent)
Significance: component of the epidermis
We like to work with these raw materials containing essential fatty acids:
| Tradename | INCI | Supplier | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin F Forte | Linoleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid | CLR Chemische Laboratorium | |
| BIOSIL EFA | Linoleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid (and) Tocopherol | Biosil | |
| ViaPure Hops | Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid | Gfn-Selco | |
| ABS Acai Sterols EFA | Euterpe Oleracea Sterols (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Oleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid | Active Concepts | |
| Vitamin F oilsoluble N | Linolenic Acid (and) Oleic Acid (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | |
| SymHair Shape | Cetearyl Nonanoate (and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract (and) Ethylhexyl Isononanoate (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil | Symrise | |
| SymHair Shape & Color | Cetearyl Nonanoate (and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Bran Extract (and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract (and) Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil | Symrise | |
| HyWhite | Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Linolenic Acid | Gfn-Selco |
Sophisticated cosmetics with Vitamin F
Essential fatty acids (EFA), formerly called essential fatty acids, cannot be produced by the body itself and yet they are immensely important. They play an important role in many processes in the organism and also have a great influence on our skin appearance. A deficiency often has a negative effect on the skin. Whether for acne, dry skin, itching or neurodermatitis, essential fatty acids are an excellent choice for demanding skin care products. Cosmacon will be happy to develop appropriate formulations with essential fatty acids for you according to your wishes.
Literature:
- Martini, M-C, & Seiller, M.(2006) Actifs & additives en cosmétologie.3rd edn.pub. Lavoisier, New York & London
- Cardoso, C.R. et al. (2010) Oleic acid modulation of the immune reponse in wound-healing: a new approach to skin care Immunobiology July 22 (epub ahead of print).
- Cardoso, C.R. et al. (2004) Influence of topical administration of n-3 and n-6 essential and n-9 non-essential fatty acids on the healing of cutaneous wounds Wound Repair Regen. 12 (2): 235-43.
- McCusker, M.M. & Grant-Kels, J.M. Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids Clin. Dermatol. 28 (4): 440-51.