Japanese cosmetics
When it comes to beauty care, K-Beauty has some serious competition. While the Korean cosmetics trend usually comes in bright colours and is primarily intended to be fun, Japanese cosmetics stand for a whole new kind of mindful skincare that focuses specifically on healthy skin. True to the motto “less is more”, the new trend focuses on a long-term and sustainable effect. Unlike K-Beauty, the focus here is not on “Instagram suitability” and the sophisticated concealment of supposed flaws, but on skin health, skin protection and skin strengthening. Only the name is similar: like the “K” in K-Beauty (“Korean Beauty”), the letter “J” indicates the country of origin. And in this case, that is Japan.
The most important features of Japanese cosmetics
Japanese women traditionally take a lot of time to cleanse and care for their face. They have been celebrating beauty for centuries. This is also one of the main reasons why Japanese women often look ten years younger than women in many other countries. They learn from an early age that healthy and beautiful skin requires daily attention.
In Europe, on the other hand, young people usually don’t start taking care of their skin until they are teenagers and entering puberty. And they do so rather involuntarily, because the first blackheads and spots start to appear. However, Japanese cosmetics do not focus on repairing existing skin damage, but on preventing skin problems, i.e. prevention. And preferably right from the start.
Most Japanese people start using Japanese cosmetics at a very young age to keep their complexion radiant and healthy. In addition, enormous sums have been invested in research in Japan for decades.
Japanese cosmetics are the opposite of instant effects
However, this research is by no means about launching new fast-moving trends with the most extravagant ingredients possible, such as snail slime. Rather, the aim is to be able to offer sophisticated products with ingredients that are as natural as possible. The skin should develop positively in the long term with consistent care.
In order to be able to guarantee a reliable long-term effect, many Japanese beauty brands rely on rather simple, optimally researched and traditional ingredients. Interesting examples include silk, green tea, rice and pure oils. Silk is a special case in point, as the structure of this natural fibre is similar to human skin.
Silk proteins are able to bind three hundred times their own weight in liquid. They are therefore considered optimal moisturisers: some Japanese beauty brands are already taking advantage of this by producing high-quality silk cosmetics. The valuable Koishimaru silk is particularly suitable in this context, as it can promote hyaluronic acid synthesis in the dermis and epidermis. Mineral ingredients are also a very important topic in Japanese cosmetics.
These products are included in Japanese cosmetics
Japanese cosmetics are extremely complex and begin with pre-cleansing. Depending on the individual skin type, Japanese women use “cleansing milk”, “balm”, “oil”, gel or cream. A special remover for the lips and eyes is also a must. This is followed by thorough deep cleansing. Here too, the Japanese cosmetic cleansing product is optimally tailored to the skin’s needs.
The spectrum ranges from creamy and milky products to cleansing foams. Combination products that simultaneously cleanse and act as a mask are also part of the Japanese cosmetics concept. After double cleansing, the skin is perfectly moisturised. Emulsions, lotions and creams are available for this purpose. Japanese women also use other Japanese cosmetic products for special skin needs as required.
Whether loss of elasticity, dull and tired skin, fine lines and wrinkles or extreme dryness, Japanese cosmetics offer high-quality skincare products for all these requirements, with the aim of achieving a lasting and long-term effect. Incidentally, this variety is typical of Japanese beauty rituals. Japanese women use up to 14 Japanese cosmetics products for their morning routine alone, with an average of four products being used just for cleansing.
Incidentally, lotions with a very liquid consistency that almost resemble a facial toner are particularly popular. However, these are still relatively unknown in this country.
The “secret” of Japanese cosmetics
In principle, Japanese cosmetics are a successful mix of natural recipes, ancient Japanese wisdom and the latest research findings. And it fully reflects the spirit of the times, which is increasingly focussing on naturalness and efficiency. It is reported that Japanese brand companies in the Japanese cosmetics sector are currently working hard on further interesting innovations. For example, a virtually invisible, firming mask that smoothes out fine lines and skin irregularities and provides the complexion with nourishing active ingredients and moisture for hours is to be launched in the near future. The mask should be very easy to remove in the evening. Provisional name: “Second Skin”. Here, too, futuristic high-tech knowledge meets well-known natural remedies and traditional recipes. This skilful symbiosis hits the nerve of the times and is well received. Not only in Japan, by the way, because Japanese cosmetics are also increasingly causing a stir in German-speaking countries.
Below you will find some Japanese plant extracts that we like to formulate with:
Green tea extract
INCI Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol
Expected effect Skin-astringent
Green tea has been a traditional drink in Japan since the Heian period (more than 1000 years ago). The numerous positive effects of the green tea plant have been proven many times over. Green tea lowers the cholesterol level in the blood and has an antioxidant effect. The leaves have a high content of catechin (tannin), caffeine, amino acids and
vitamin C, which relieves tiredness and drowsiness, among other things. Green tea is not only a healthy drink, but also an important ingredient in cosmetics. It supports the health and purity of the skin and has a gentle deodorising effect.
Sake kasu extract
INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Lees Extract, Butylene Glycol
Expected effect Improvement of the skin condition
Sake-kasu is the sediment left over from the production of Japanese sake. The residue can be used as a base for pickling, as the main ingredient of amazake (a traditional sweet sake with little or no alcohol content). It is noticeable that the people who make Japanese sake have beautiful skin because their skin comes into contact with sake-kasu so often. It contains a variety of vitamins, amino acids and yeasts, among other things. The extract is used to improve the condition of the skin.
Ume extract
INCI Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol
Expected effect Moisturising, strengthens the skin barrier function
Japanese plum “Ume” (Prunus Mume) is traditionally eaten dried and salted as Umeboshi. The health-promoting effects of this intensely flavoured Japanese product have been known for centuries. The nutritional values of ume are outstanding compared to other fruits. It contains large amounts of proteins and minerals (inorganic substances) such as calcium, potassium, phosphorus and iron, as well as vitamins A, B 1, B 2 and C. In addition, ume contains a specific substance: lyoniresinol. In skin care, the traditional fruit is used to improve the skin barrier function and moisturise the skin.
Yomogi extract
INCI Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, tightens pores, active oxygen radical scavenger, promotes blood circulation
Yomogi (Artemisia Princeps) has long been regarded as a remedy “for everything” and is therefore used not only in Japan but all over the world. In Japan, the plant was traditionally known as the “haemostatic plant”. The Latin name “Artemisia” is derived from “Artemis”, the goddess of hunting and the moon (also known as the goddess of fertility) in Greek mythology. She is also considered the “goddess of plants and herbs”.
Yomogi contains essential oils, flavonoids, tannins, polyacetylene and inulin. It is used to inhibit inflammation, tighten pores, improve blood circulation and as an antioxidant.
Dokudami Extract
INCI Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory
Dokudami (Houttuynia cordata) is a strong-smelling plant from the Saururaceae (lizard tail) family, which is widespread in Japan and Southeast Asia. Dokudami has been used as a private medicine, especially in Japan, since the Edo era (AD 1603-1868). The name “dokudami” goes back to the Japanese words for “suppressing poison” (“doku” = poison, “dami” = antidote). Dokudami contains flavonoids and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Biwa extract
INCI Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, promotes blood circulation
Biwa (Eriobotrya Japonica) is an evergreen tree of the rose family and has been known as a medicinal plant since time immemorial. The leaves of the biwa are lightly dried and then gently rubbed over the affected area to reduce inflammation. During the Nara era (AD 710-794), the emperor ordered that biwa leaves be used as a remedy for poor people who could not afford the finer processed medicines of the ruling class. Biwa leaves contain tannins, saponins and essential oil components and are therefore considered to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Alpinia extract
INCI Alpinia Speciosa Leaf Extract
Expected effect Collagen-strengthening, inhibition of collagenase
Alpinia Speciosa is classified as being related to ginger. The Sino-Japanese characters for Alpinia Speciosa mean “moon” and “peach”. The name is a reference to the shape of the peach illuminated by the moon. Alpinia Speciosa is cultivated in subtropical and tropical regions, especially on Okinawa, the southernmost island of Japan. Alpinia leaves have a unique fragrance and contain essential oils (cineole, pinene and borneol) and flavonoids. They are said to have collagen-strengthening effects.
Amacha-zuru extract
INCI Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, moisturising, improves skin elasticity
Amacha-zuru (Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Leaf Extract) is a perennial climbing plant from the Cucurbitaceae family (gourd family) native to Japan and other Asian countries. The leaves of Amacha-zuru are traditionally used as a medicinal plant and tea. It was recently discovered that the leaves and stems of the amacha-zuru plant contain large amounts of saponin, which is also the active ingredient in Korean ginseng. The extract is said to have an anti-inflammatory and moisturising effect and improve the elasticity of the skin.
Aobana extract
INCI Commelina Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Expected effect Collagen strengthening
Aobana (Commelina Communis) is a wildflower that was originally used as a dye. The name Aobana means “blue flower” and refers to the cobalt blue colour of the flower. Recent research has found that Aobana contains DNJ (1-deoxynojirimycin) and DMDP (4-dihydroxypyrrolidine). Aobana is attracting increasing interest as it can prevent diabetes. The extract is said to have a strengthening effect on collagen.
Ashitaba extract
INCI Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract
Expected effect Moisturising, cell regeneration
Ashitaba (Angelica Keiskei) is a wild grass from the Seriacea family with a refreshing fragrance and a characteristic bitter flavour. Ashitaba is gaining increasing interest as a healthy vegetable with high nutritional value. It is also used as an ingredient in the well-known Japanese health drink “Aojiru” (green juice). Ashitaba contains vitamins A, B and K, flavonoids, organic acid and some minerals. The extract is said to have a moisturising effect and improve cell regeneration.
Daizu extract
INCI Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, collagen-strengthening, cell-activating
Daizu is the Japanese word for soya bean. Soya beans are rich in nutrients, e.g. isoflavones (daidzein, genistein and glycitein), saponins and amino acids. The extract is said to have an anti-inflammatory and moisturising effect and strengthen collagen.
Hatomugi extract
INCI Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract
Expected effect Collagen strengthening, inhibition of collagenase
Hatomugi (Coix Lacryma-JobiMa-yuen) is a plant of the genus Juzudama from the Gramineae family (sweet grasses). It reaches a height of 1 to 1.5 metres. In Japan, it is said that the name Hatomugi goes back to the word for pigeon (“Hato”) in the Meiji era, because pigeons like the plant as food. The dried, huskless seeds of Hatomigi are called “Yokuinin” and are used as a raw drug. Hatomugi contains saccharides, amino acids and coixenolides and is known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturising effects.
Hyuga touki extract
INCI Angelica Furcijuga Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory
Hyuga-Touki (Angelica Furcijuga) is a very rare plant that only grows in some parts of the island of Kyushu in southern Japan. In the Edo era, hyuga touki was held in high esteem as a private medicine and was called the “god plant” due to its healing properties for a wide variety of diseases. Recently, the roots of hyuga touki were certified as a medicinal substance by the Ministry of Health. Hyuga touki contains coumarin and polyacetylene and is said to reduce NO formation by stimulating LPS.
Maguwa extract
INCI Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Expected effect Antioxidant
Maguwa (Morus Alba) is a stately tree from the mulberry family. It was planted in various places for silkworm breeding. The leaves of the maguwa contain DNJ (1-deoxynojirimycin), flavonoids, GABA and fibre. The extract is said to act as an antioxidant.
Peach leaf extract
INCI Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, skin-astringent, antioxidant
The leaves of the peach tree “prunus persica” can be used as medicinal herbs. For example, the juice from peach fruit and peach tree leaves can be applied to damaged areas of skin. Peach tree leaves can be used to prepare a skin-soothing hot bath. The leaves contain tannins, amino acids, cyanogenic glycosides, flavonoids and phenol. The extract is said to have anti-inflammatory, astringent and antioxidant properties.
Sanshou extract
INCI Zanthoxylum Piperitum Peel Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory
Sanshou (Zanthoxylum Piperitum) is one of the oldest peppers in Japan. It was introduced in the Jomon period over 3000 years ago. There are several types of
Sanshou: pepper pickled in flowers, blue pepper and real pepper from unripe fruit, powdered pepper from the dried, crushed skin. In Japan, it is particularly popular on eel. Sanshou contains sanshool, sanshoamide and components of essential oils (geraniol) and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Satsuma imo extract
INCI Ipomoea BatatasLeaf/Stem Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant
Satsuma-imo is the Japanese name for a type of sweet potato. It was given its name during the famine on Kyushu in the Edo period, when it was smuggled into several large cities and saved many people from starvation.
The life-giving power and nutritional value of satsuma-imo made it interesting for agricultural cultivation, which is why it spread throughout Japan. The leaves and stems contain polyphenols and lutein, among other things, which are the basis of its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
Senkyu extract
INCI Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, promotes blood circulation
Senkyu (Cnidium Officinale rhizomes) is a plant from the Seriaceae family. It contains ligustilide and ferulic acid, among other things. It improves blood circulation and has anti-inflammatory effects. This is why Senkyu is used for anaemia and sensitivity to cold (“cold feet”).
Suikazura extract
INCI Lonicera Japonica Leaf Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory
Suikazura (Lonicera Japonica) is a semi-evergreen or evergreen flowering tree that belongs to the honeysuckle family. It grows in Japan and East Asian countries. The dried bud of the honeysuckle flower is called the “gold and silver flower” and symbolises gold and silver treasures. These medicinal plant helps with fevers. The extract is said to have an anti-inflammatory effect.
Touki extract
INCI Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Expected effect Anti-inflammatory, moisturising, promotes blood circulation
Touki (Angelica acutiloba) is a light brown to brown liquid with a typical odour. It was traditionally used in Japan and China as a raw drug for toning, blood purification, pain relief and gynaecological diseases. Angelica extract contains coumarin derivatives, angelic acid, amino acids, phthalides and vitamin B11, which is why it is said to have positive effects on blood circulation as well as anti-inflammatory and moisturising effects.
Are you interested in a Japanese cosmetics product line?
Cosmacon will be happy to support you in developing a corresponding beauty sub-brand for your existing brand. The new cosmetics trend is clearly on the rise and is viewed much more favourably by experts than K-Beauty. And that’s no wonder, because no beauty-conscious woman can avoid really thorough and natural skin care.
Literature:
Sasaki M, Kondo M, Sato K, Umeda M, Kawabata K, Takahashi Y, Suzuki T, Matsunaga K, Inoue S.Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2014 Sep;27(5):754-63