Protein Hydrolysates
Protein hydrolysates are the result of a process called hydrolysis, in which proteins are broken down into smaller molecules. Usually, proteins are large molecules that the body cannot utilise directly. They must first be broken down into smaller molecules such as free amino acids or di- and tripeptides so that the body can utilise them. These large proteins are broken down into smaller peptides by hydrolysis, which minimises the digestive effort for the body. This enables faster absorption of nutrients into the bloodstream, especially in sports and sports medicine applications where accelerated nutrient delivery to the muscles is important. Before the proteins can even enter the human bloodstream and be transported from there to the muscle cells and organs, they are first broken down into amino acids and peptides by our digestive tract. Without this breakdown, they would not be able to pass through the transport channels in the intestinal wall.
The advantage of protein hydrolysates therefore lies in the fact that the body has to make virtually no digestive effort at all, but the nutrients still reach the bloodstream quickly and without detours. Protein hydrolysates are used particularly frequently in sport and sports medicine. The ‘free’ amino acids they contain can be better absorbed by the body, which leads to the desired acceleration of the nutrient supply to muscle tissue in athletes and bodybuilders, among others. However, protein hydrolysates are now also gaining ground in cosmetics. And there is a simple reason for this.
Protein hydrolysates in hair care products
Protein hydrolysates are also popular in the cosmetics industry. For example, hydrolysed rice or wheat proteins are often used in natural cosmetic shampoos. They prevent the hair from becoming electrically charged when brushing or styling and improve its suppleness and strength. These small molecules can penetrate the hair to strengthen and revitalise it, unlike intact proteins which can only form a protective layer on the surface of the hair.
Hydrolysed wheat proteins in the shampoo have the properties of a conditioner and contribute to more vitality, volume and hair strength. They make the hair more supple and help to rebuild the hair fibre. Protein hydrolysates are also completely vegan and water-soluble. Basically, protein hydrolysates improve the hair’s resistance and thus protect it from damage caused by external influences. Whilst intact proteins with large molecules cannot penetrate the hair and only form a microscopically fine and externally smoothing protective layer on the surface, protein hydrolysates (small molecules) penetrate the hair without any problems. As the smallest components, the amino acids rebuild the hair, strengthen the structure and can even accelerate hair growth. As well as being used in shampoos, protein hydrolysates are therefore also suitable for use in hair oils and hair treatments. Protein hydrolysates start repairing and repairing damage as soon as they penetrate the inner layers of the hair, so that the hair usually feels much healthier and stronger very quickly. Protein hydrolysates are also suitable for all hair types, regardless of whether it is dry, oily, fine or brittle.
Hydrolysed proteins in skin care products
Protein hydrolysates are also used in skin care products, where they can increase the blood circulation and elasticity of the skin and reduce moisture loss. In many cases, protein hydrolysates can be used to increase circulation and elasticity. Products containing protein hydrolysates often offer healing and skin tightening effects, making them ideal for mature or damaged skin.
Hydrolysed proteins in the Cosmetics Regulation
Because hydrolysed wheat proteins were suspected of triggering contact allergies in sensitive people, the EU Commission added new provisions to the Cosmetics Regulation in 2017. The content of potentially allergenic proteins was minimised accordingly. Regulation EU 2017/2228 states that the average molecular mass of peptides in hydrolysed wheat protein must be limited to a maximum of 3.5 kDa (kilodaltons) when used in cosmetic products. In a revised opinion, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) categorised the use of hydrolysed wheat protein in cosmetic products as safe for consumers, provided that the maximum value of 3.5 kDa is not exceeded. As this limit had already been discussed for several years, the cosmetics industry had sufficient time to prepare for the new regulation for protein hydrolysates.
PROFILE: Hydrolysed wheat protein
INCI: Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
CAS number: 70084-87-6
EINECS number: 305-225-0
Areas of application: for skin and hair care products: Creams, lotions, shampoos and conditioners. Improves sun protection against free radicals. Approved for certified natural cosmetics.
Ingredients: rich in natural vitamin E, high content of the amino acids proline and glutamine
PROFILE: Hydrolysed oat protein
INCI: Hydrolysed Oat Protein
CAS number: 151661-87-9
Properties: gives the skin a soft feeling, for more suppleness of the hair, prevents static charging of the hair.
Ingredients: contains eight essential amino acids, high biological value
PROFILE: Hydrolysed pea protein
INCI: Hydrolysed Pea Protein
CAS number: 222400-29-5
Properties: strengthens the hair and gives shine, helps to keep the hair hydrated, prevents hair breakage, restorative, antioxidant, volumising, conditioning and firming properties.
Ingredients: including essential amino acids
PROFILE: Hydrolysed rice protein
INCI: Hydrolysed Rice Protein
CAS number: 156715-40-1
Properties: prevents hair from becoming statically charged, for hair conditioning and skin care
PROFILE: Hydrolysed Jojoba protein
INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein
CAS number: 100684-35-3
EINECS number: 309-708-7
Properties: hair and skin conditioning
PROFILE: Hydrolysed Yeast protein
INCI: Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
CAS number: 100684-36-4
EINECS number: 309-709-2
Use: for antistatic and hair care products, improves the moisture content of the skin
We like to work with these hydrolysed proteins in hair and skin care:
| Trade Name | Company | INCI | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wheat Herbaprotein | Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| Promois WG-SP | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| Wheat Tein NPNF | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| SpecPure HWP | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| Gluadin WP | BASF | Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| Hydrotriticum 2000 | Croda | Aqua, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| Cropeptide W | Croda | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Water (Aqua) | |
| Cocoyl Wheat Polypeptide | Sinerga | Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| iProt Cereals | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract | |
| PROTELAN VE/K NP | Zschimmer & Schwarz | Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate | |
| Hidrahair Progress | Chemyunion | Water, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Sodium Stearate | |
| KeraPlant NPNF | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Water, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein | |
| VEGEQUAT | Sinerga | Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | |
| PROQUERATIN | AQiA Química Inovativa | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Carbocysteine, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid | |
| Phytocream 2000 | Sinerga | Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol | |
| iQuat Biodegra | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Water, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract, Lactose, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Glycerin | |
| Cerealmilk Premium SP | Chemyunion | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Protein, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Chloride | |
| HYDROVEG Rnp | VARIATI SPA | Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA, Allantoin, Lactic Acid | |
| Hydroveg VV | VARIATI SPA | Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA, Allantoin, Lactic Acid | |
| Hydrolyzed Oat WNGN | Provital | Aqua, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein | |
| AVENOSOL | VARIATI SPA | Hydrolyzed Oat Protein | |
| Uniprosyn PS-18 | Givaudan Active Beauty | Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Niacinamide, Adenosine Triphosphate | |
| AVOGELIA NF | VARIATI SPA | Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids | |
| iProt Cereals | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract | |
| Cerealmilk Premium SP | Chemyunion | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Protein, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Chloride | |
| iQuat Biodegra | KimiKa, LLC (Formerly Cosphatech) | Water, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract, Lactose, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Glycerin | |
| SpecKare HRP (Hydrolyzed Rice Protein) | Spec-Chem Industry Inc | Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| Rice Tein NPNF | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| PROARROZ SP | AQiA Química Inovativa | Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| Promois WR-SP | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| SHAROHYAL RICE | Sharon Personal Care Srl | Aqua, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic Acid | |
| Vari Ker Green | VARIATI SPA | Aqua, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein | |
| Protectagen | Ashland | Aqua, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| Promois WR-CAQ | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Water | |
| Polycare RICE C | Syensqo | Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| KERARICE GNSB | Provital | Water, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| Prolixir-ICE | Ashland | Water, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| Survixyl RZ | Ashland | Water, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | |
| PeptAlde 4.0 | BASF | Water, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Citric Acid | |
| EssentiaTein Protect | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract | |
| Fision WrinkleFix | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Water, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Glycine, Proline, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate | |
| Vari-Rice 100 | VARIATI SPA | Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein | |
| OKINACEA | Gelyma | Water, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein | |
| Hydroveg VV | VARIATI SPA | Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA, Allantoin, Lactic Acid | |
| Fiber.CARE X | AQiA Química Inovativa | Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ethyl Olivate, Ethyl Laurate, Jojoba Esters, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Xylitol, Glycolic Acid, Alcohol, Aqua | |
| CollaPlant Z NPNF | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Water, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Rice Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Proline | |
| Promois WJ-SP | SEIWA KASEI CO., LTD. | Hydrolyzed Pea Protein | |
| Pea.Protein | Sinerga | Hydrolyzed Pea Protein | |
| Coco Pea.Soft | Sinerga | Water, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Pea Protein | |
| KeraMatch V | Croda | Aqua, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein | |
| Vari Ker Green | VARIATI SPA | Aqua, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein | |
| Liposomal Phytocollagen | Lipomize | Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Water, Phosphatidylcholine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum | |
| Fision WrinkleFix | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Water, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Glycine, Proline, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate | |
| EMortal | BioSpectrum, Inc. | Propanediol, Aqua, Phytosterols, Lecithin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ceramide NP | |
| Fision HydraTress | Tri-K Industries, Inc. | Water, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Quinoa, Glycerin, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Seed Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate |
Hydrolysed proteins as effective ingredients
Even in cosmetics, proteins can only be optimally absorbed by the body if they have undergone hydrolysis. This is the only way they can penetrate deep into the skin and hair and develop their effect there. Hydrolysed proteins are therefore an excellent choice for sophisticated care products. If you would also like to offer a product with a hydrolysed protein, please contact us.
Sources:
Evaluating the Antioxidants, Whitening and Antiaging Properties of Rice Protein Hydrolysates.; Molecules. 2021 Jun 12;26(12):3605.
Hydrolyzed Collagen-Sources and Applications.; Molecules. 2019 Nov 7;24(22):4031
Safety Assessment of Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten as Used in Cosmetics.; Int J Toxicol. 2018.
Seaweed Protein Hydrolysates and Bioactive Peptides: Extraction, Purification, and Applications.; Mar Drugs. 2021 Aug 31;19(9):500.
Safety Assessment of Silk Protein Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics.; Int J Toxicol. 2020 Nov/Dec;39(3_suppl):127S-144S.