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Chemical peels such as hydroxy acids can significantly improve the skin’s appearance. Contrary to many rumors, this method is even milder than mechanical peels<\/strong><\/a> with tiny peeling grains. Provided it is applied very carefully and the corresponding peeling products are of high quality. But what do hydroxy acids actually do and what is there to consider?<\/p>\n <\/p>\n This procedure uses highly effective fruit acids that remove part of the upper skin layer and at the same time stimulate collagen formation in the deeper layers. On the one hand, this reduces the appearance of small wrinkles, and on the other hand, it refines the size of the pores. These two aspects are already sufficient to improve the skin’s appearance. But hydroxy acids do even more. Pigment irregularities can be effectively evened out with this method, and germs and bacteria that are normally responsible for skin blemishes, pimples and acne are also prevented from growing. The complexion subsequently looks younger, fresher and more even, the skin gains elasticity and impurities and pigmentation spots recede.<\/p>\n If hydroxy acids peelings are performed by an experienced beautician or dermatologist, there is no risk and the procedure is without side effects. If laymen use the procedure at home on their own, they should do it only with extreme care. If the concentration of the fruit acid is too high or if the maximum possible exposure time is exceeded, in the worst case it can lead to burns on the skin with subsequent scarring.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Anyone who suffers from sensitive skin should first check with a dermatologist whether hydroxy acids are recommended in this case. The specialist then has the possibility, for example, to adjust the concentration and application time to the individual skin type in such a way that the sensitive skin does not suffer from the chemical peel and there are no side effects. Particularly sensitive areas of the face can then also be left out during the treatment.<\/p>\n People suffering from couperose should generally avoid hydroxy acids. The fruit acid stimulates the blood circulation of the skin, so that the redness subsequently becomes much more noticeable.<\/p>\n Hydroxy acids should also be avoided if preparations containing vitamin A<\/strong> are taken at the same time. The same applies to antibiotics: The dermatologist must be informed in any case about the antibiotic intake before the peeling treatment.<\/p>\n As far as the optimum time for hydroxy acids is concerned: winter, when there is little sunshine, is in principle the best time. A treatment in summer is only unproblematic if no vacation in the south or in the mountains is planned in the near future and direct sunlight is generally avoided. Daily application of a UV sunscreen<\/a> is also obligatory<\/strong> after peelings in summer.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Those who dare to use hydroxy acids as a layman must in any case heed a few rules of thumb. For example, you should always start with the lowest concentration, which can then be slowly increased over the course of the applications if no undesirable side effects have occurred by then. Daily application only makes sense if the skin tolerates it. If it reacts with reddening or even burns, a break between the individual applications is advisable. In addition, it is always better to apply hydroxy acids in the evening so that the skin has time and rest overnight to recover. And very important: only uninjured skin should be exfoliated!<\/p>\n <\/p>\n There are different hydroxy acids and they all have specific properties.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n AHA peels:<\/strong><\/p>\n The abbreviation AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid<\/strong> and usually means either glycolic acid<\/strong> (fruit acid), mandelic acid or lactic acid<\/strong>. Here, a concentration between 5.0 and 10.0 percent is common. These chemical peels are best suited for dehydrated and dry skin and are considered well tolerated and gentle. Nevertheless, they are exceptionally thorough and effective. Glycolic acid is also the best solution for flaky skin that is already sun-damaged and plagued by closed blackheads.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet Glycolic Acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n CAS number: 79-14-1<\/p>\n Melting point: 76 to 80 degrees Celsius<\/p>\n Boiling point: 100 degrees Celsius (decomposition)<\/p>\n Effect: Acts deep in the lower skin layers, stimulates cell regeneration, strengthens the elasticity of the skin.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet \u00a0Mandelic Acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Alternative name: alpha-hydroxyphenylacetic acid<\/p>\n CAS number: 90-64-2<\/p>\n Melting point: 119 degrees Celsius<\/p>\n Effect: bacteriocidal or bacteriostatic, hydrophilic<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet \u00a0Lactic Acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Alternative name: 2-hydroxypropionic acid<\/p>\n CAS number: 50-21-5<\/p>\n Effect: increases the content of ceramides, improves the moisture content<\/p>\n <\/p>\n BHA peels:<\/strong><\/p>\n BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid<\/strong> and primarily means salicylic acid<\/a><\/strong>. This type of peeling is particularly suitable for oily and oily skin, as the acid has an anti-inflammatory and lipophilic effect and reduces colonization by hair follicle mites. Those suffering from a mild form of rosacea will also benefit from this method. People who suffer from an intolerance to acetylsalicylic acid should not use hydroxy acids with BHA or should consult their dermatologist beforehand.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet Salicylic Acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n CAS number: 69-72-7<\/p>\n Melting point: 159 degrees Celsius<\/p>\n Boiling point: 211 degrees Celsius<\/p>\n Effect: kerato- and comedolytic effect, inhibits the formation of inflammations<\/p>\n <\/p>\n LHA peels:<\/strong><\/p>\n LHA (Lipo Hydroxy Acid)<\/strong> is still relatively new and even more lipophilic than salicylic acid. At the same time, the acid has excellent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, yet – as a hydroxy acid \u2013 it is exceptionally mild and gentle to the skin. Ideal for oily and slightly sensitive skin.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet Lipohydroxy Acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Alternative name: \u03b2-lipohydroxy acid; 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid<\/p>\n CAS number: 78418-01-6<\/p>\n Melting point: 119 degrees Celsius<\/p>\n Action: strong lipophilic, skin renewing, exfoliating and acne treating properties.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n PHA peels:<\/strong><\/p>\n PHA peels\u00a0with lactobionic acid are even gentler than AHA peels and are considered excellent moisturizers. They are antioxidant, hydrophilic and a gentle solution for dry, sun-damaged, and flaky skin.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet Gluconolactone<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Alternative name: D-glucuronic acid-\u03b3-lactone, glucuronlactone<\/p>\n CAS number: 32449-92-6<\/p>\n Effect: moisturizing and strongly hygroscopic long-term effect, stimulates skin renewal, promotes desquamation, strengthens the skin barrier, antioxidative<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Fact Sheet Lactobionic acid<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n Alternative name: 4-O-\u03b2-galactopyranosyl-D-gluconic acid, galactosylgluconic acid<\/p>\n CAS number: 96-82-2<\/p>\n Effect: strongly hygroscopic (water-binding), antioxidant, very good anti-aging effect.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Hydroxy acids are not dangerous chemical bombs but, when used properly and carefully, are a safe, gentle, and effective way to improve the skin’s appearance. However, it is important that the acid is chosen according to the individual skin type so that the result has the best possible effect. In addition, various rules of conduct should be observed when dealing with the substances. Those who take this to heart usually have no side effects to fear. Cosmacon will be happy to advise you on this subject and help you to develop high-quality solutions for chemical peels that meet your needs.<\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Sources:\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n Licochalcone A in Combination with\u00a0Salicylic\u00a0Acid\u00a0as Fluid Based and Hydroxy-Complex 10% Cream for the Treatment of Mild Acne: A Multicenter Prospective Trial.;\u00a0<\/a>Dall\u2019Oglio F, Fabbrocini G, Tedeschi A, Donnarumma M, Chiodini P, Micali G.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2019 Dec 31;12:961-967.<\/p>\n A kinetic-based safety assessment of consumer exposure to\u00a0salicylic\u00a0acid\u00a0from\u00a0cosmetic\u00a0products demonstrates no evidence of a health risk from developmental toxicity.;\u00a0<\/a>Labib R, Bury D, Boisleve F, Eichenbaum G, Girard S, Naciff J, Leal M, Wong J.Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2018 Apr;94:245-251<\/p>\n Dual Effects of\u00a0Alpha-Hydroxy\u00a0Acids on the Skin.;\u00a0<\/a>What can chemical peeling do?<\/h3>\n
Are hydroxy acids suitable for everyone?<\/h3>\n
Important rules of thumb for chemical peelings<\/h3>\n
Which hydroxy acids suit which skin type?<\/h3>\n
Hydroxy acids: targeted improvement of skin texture with acids<\/h3>\n